Making Soap

With a wide variety of oils available today, making your own soap is once again very inexpensive, and a good choice for those concerned about quality, health related benefits, and the environment. Successful soap making today is a result of a much better understanding of chemistry, experience, and a wider variety of ingredients to choose from. Today's soaps are milder and better for skin thanks to the availability of vegetable and plant based oils.

Chemically speaking, soap is a salt. An acid and a base react with one another and are neutralized to form a salt or soap. A more basic explanation is: oils or fats combine with Sodium Hydroxide or “Lye” in a process called saponification to produce soap. Hand made soap retains extra glycerin, known to soften the skin naturally. Glycerin is one of the best known humecants (attracts moisture to the skin). It is often extracted during the process of manufacturing commercially made soap, then sold as a valuable by-product. Natural ingredients are rarely used in commercially manufactured soap. If used at all, it is sparingly. One of the best advantages of making your own soap is that you are in charge of quality control. You decide which ingredients to use and how much.

Animal versus Vegetable-based Soaps - Originally, all soap was made from animal fats - mainly lard from pigs and tallow from cattle. It was readily available and at the time no one questioned the use of animal by-products. Over time, new oils were extracted from vegetables, grains and nuts providing an alternative to animal oils. Vegetable oil soaps are chemically superior and can be of higher quality than soaps made with animal fats. Vegetable oils are more readily absorbed by the skin while animal oils have been found to clog pores and aggravate certain skin conditions, such as eczema.

Different soap making processes include:

• Cold Process Method: This process is widely used by home-based soap makers. The neutralization stage takes place during the moulding stage. Our kits follow this method.
• Semi-boiled Method: After the soap mixture traces, heat is added using a double-boiler to cause the soap to neutralize before being moulded.
• Full-boiled Method: This method is where all ingredients are prepared in one large container. Heat is added causing neutralization. Large commercial manufacturers use this method to achieve the by-product called glycerin.
• Transparent Soap: This soap is made clear by adding solvents such as alcohol to prevent crystals from forming as the soap cools. Transparent soap is often referred to as Glycerin Soap. However, this is a fallacy as glycerin is not needed to produce a clear or transparent soap. This soap can be drying to the skin.
• Melt and Pour Soap: Or also known a solid Glycerin blocks. Pure glycerin, animal or vegetable derived, is always liquid and can only be solidified by the addition of plastizer chemicals. To produce a foam, detergents are added. This method is simply making soap from soap and is more expensive than starting from scratch. Melt and pour soaps may have natural ingredients added to them but they are synthetically based.

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The Soap Process

Natural hand-made soap is not difficult to make, once you understand the basics. You can make a batch of soap in as little as one hour, depending on the formula. The following is the basic formula for making all soap:

Fatty acid (oil) + Base (lye) = “A Salt” (soap)

The oil or fat is heated gently. Lye and water are combined separately. When both ingredients reach the required temperature, they are combined. When the mixture becomes the desired consistency, it is poured into a mould. The bars are then removed from the mould after setting up (approximately 24 to 48 hours). They are restacked and allowed to “cure” or dry until hard. This can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks depending on the formula.

The cold process of making soap involves mixing a combination of fats (natural oils) with a lye solution until a process of saponification takes place. Saponification is a chemical process which converts a fat into a soap by reaction with an alkali (lye). Each fat has a saponification value which measures the amount of lye necessary to saponify one gram of fat. The amounts of the fats, along with their saponification values, are inserted into a mathematical formula that will give the total amount of lye needed to saponify a batch of soap. You can use the old method of figuring -

6 ounces of lye to 2.5 cups of water + 13 3/4 lbs. of fat

or use the Lye Calculator at the Majestic Mountain Sage website to calcuate the lye fat and water formulations.

Just about any fat or combination of fats can be used. The qualities of the soap, such as hardness or softness, amount of lather, and whether it is harsh or mild, are determined by the types of fats used. Once the saponification process has begun to take place, at trace (the point at which a line begins to form when stirring the mixture) the soap is poured into molds and allowed to solidify. Once the soap has solidified (after a couple of days), the soap is sliced into individual bars and set aside to cure. The curing process generally takes up to 6 weeks.

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Soap Preservatives

A preservative is defined as something that protects against decomposition. However, nature has its own agenda and decay is inevitable. There are no preservatives, synthetic or natural, that can completely stop this process — they can only slow it down.

Oxidation occurs within fats/oils which causes rancidity and spoilage to occur. Carrot oil, Vitamin E oil, and Grapefruit Seed Extract are three natural preservatives that are recommended. They contain powerful anti-oxidants such as vitamin A, E and C, which can help prevent spoilage.

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Preparations for Making Soap

Soap Making Supplies Needed:

• Oils (fats) - the other ingredient you will need can also be purchased in the grocery store. I make most of my soap from 100% lard and purchase it in 1 lb blocks. If you plan on making lots of soap, there are cheaper ways of getting lard, however. One possibility is the big boxes used by restaurant or bakery stores. Ask them where they get it and more than likely their supplier will also sell it to you. Several other oils and fats can be purchased in the grocery store as well, such as corn oil, Canola oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, olive oil and shortening. And don't forget the fully hydrolized vegetable oils used for deep frying foods at fast food joints. This fat makes excellent soap that won't go rancid even after long storage! Coconut oil can often be purchased locally as it's the same fat used in popcorn poppers used at the movies. You will have to settle for yellow soap, however, as this source only supplies yellow dyed coconut oil. Several of the exotic soap making oils have very short shelf lives. I would suggest you purchase fats and oils that have a long storage life if you are planning on putting them away for future soap making projects.
• Caustic Soda (lye) - can be found in some grocery or hardware stores but it's getting more difficult to find. You will generally find it in the cleaning section with the drain clearing products. Before you buy it, read the label and insure it says, 100% pure powdered or crystal sodium hydroxide. You don't want any additives in it.
• Borax - Look for The 20-Mule Team box. This is 100% pure borax and is many times cheaper than purchasing a small box of some other brand from a specialty house.
• Distilled Water
• Newspaper
• Safety Glasses or Goggles
• Rubber or Plastic Gloves
• Scale
• Glass Jar
• 1 Lye Pitcher (plastic), it's best to mark this pitcher because you'll only want to use it for lye water
• Long-handled Wooden Spoon
• 2 Thermometers (one for oils and one for lye water)
• Stainless Steel Soap Pot (do not use aluminum pot)
• Mold, Plastic or Wooden Container
• Insulating Materials (blankets work well)
• Freezer or Butcher Paper
• Fragrance or Essential Oils
• Colorant

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Soap Moulds

Generally, you can use just about any type of plastic, wood, or cardboard as a soap mould. Do not use tin, aluminum, Teflon, or copper as they react with the lye. Candy and candle moulds may work well, too. If you want something simple, choose a square or rectangular container and cut the bars to size after your soap has set. Cardboard milk or juice containers work well as they are coated with wax. To make round soaps try recycling a plastic bottle. Using an empty, clean, plastic pop or round shampoo bottle, carefully slice the sides of the bottle lengthwise. Tape sides using plastic packing tape to prevent leakage. Pour the soap mixture and let set for required amount of time. Peel tape back and release your soap, then cut the bars to a desired size. Set to cure as usual.

If you are having trouble getting your soap to release from the mould, try placing it in the freezer for two hours. This will cause the soap mixture to shrink from the sides and make removal easier. To help with release, use vegetable shortening to grease your moulds. Cardboard or wooden moulds require a combination of waxed paper or freezer paper and vegetable shortening.

Tip: Line your moulds with brown freezer or butcher’s paper. Apply some vegetable shortening to the inside surfaces of your mould, lay in some freezer paper, shiny side up, and trim to fit. After removal, simply peel off the paper from your soap block the next day.

Caution - Hazardous Materials!

• Soap making is not recommended for children because of the potential danger that lye poses.
• Carefully read the warning label on the lye bottle. Lye is also known as caustic soda (sodium hydroxide)
• Use only pure lye granules — do not make the mistake of substituting drain cleaner. It contains other ingredients that you would not want in your soap.
• Be sure to keep the lid tight on the bottle of lye. Moisture in the air will weaken its strength and cause it to form lumps.
• Lye can be fatal if swallowed.
• Always wear rubber gloves and protective clothing, such as a long sleeved shirt and shielding eyewear when working with lye.
• Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Vapours released from the lye when it is first mixed with water are quite noxious, and can greatly irritate the lungs.
• Always have a bottle of vinegar close at hand. Vinegar will help neutralize the lye/water mixture if it happens to splatter on your skin.
• Lye can remove paint, so be careful not to let it come in contact with any painted surfaces. If lye, lye/water or even freshly made soap splatters on any painted surface, wash the area quickly with water and detergent. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry.
• Freshly made soap can burn and irritate the skin, therefore it’s best not to handle soap with bare hands for at least 48 hours. If your skin does come into contact with fresh soap, rinse your skin with vinegar immediately, then rinse with running water.
• Do not use any containers made of tin, zinc or aluminum. Lye will react with them.
• Recommended containers for mixing your soap include glass, plastic, stainless steel, enamel, and heat proof stoneware.

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Adding Soap Ingredients

Remember to add all optional ingredients after your soap has traced.

Essential Oils are defined as: "Highly concentrated essences extracted from portions of the plant." They have been valued and used throughout history for their therapeutic and scent qualities. You can add a wide variety of essential oils to your soap as long as they are considered safe. Essential oils are highly concentrated and are extremely powerful. Some are beneficial while others can be harmful. It is best to research an oil before using it to:

• Determine the safety of the oil, and
• Ensure that the oil(s) are compatible with your body type.

For the soap maker, the only oils that have a habit of causing some problems (if added in high volume) are the citrus oils. They can disrupt the soap making process causing the soap to curdle. Limit these oils to no more than 2 tablespoons (30ml) per 700g (1 1/2 lb.) batch.

Blending for scent qualities: Many scents today are the direct result of scent characteristics present in nature. When it comes to blending a scent there are three main scent classifications or "notes": top, middle, and base. The top note is the odour that is immediately perceived, generally uplifting and stimulating; i.e. orange. The middle note, or modifier, provides full, solid character to the scent. Clary Sage and Marjoram are often selected as middle notes. The base note, or end note, adds depth to a blend. It becomes apparent when the top and middle notes have faded and the last volatile components remain. Clove and Sandalwood are common base notes. 

A general guideline for scenting your soap using top, middle, and base notes is:

• Top notes require 15 to 20 ml ( 3 - 4 tsp.) of essential oil per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch.
• Middle notes use 5 to 10ml (1 - 2 tsp.) of essential oil per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch.
• Base notes use 2.5 to 5ml (1/2 - 1 tsp.) per per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch..

Guide for Scenting Soap Top notes require 15 to 20 ml ( 3 - 4 tsp.) of essential oil per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch. Middle notes use 5 to 10ml (1 - 2 tsp.) of essential oil per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch. Base notes use 2.5 to 5ml (1/2 - 1 tsp.) per per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch.
Top Notes	Middle Notes	Base Notes
Mandarin	Tea Tree	Clove
Bergamot	Clary Sage	Cinnamon
Grapefruit	Anise	Oakmoss
Lemon/Lime/Orange	Rosewood/Rosemary	Cedarwood
Peppermint	Geranium	Sandalwood
Spearmint	Lavender	Patchouli
	Rose/Jasmine	Black Pepper

Natural Fixatives

Scenting your soaps is a personal choice and individual tastes will vary. It s best to add a fixative to your soap if you are adding essential oils. Common fixatives are:

• Orris Root - The most readily available and the one that has been used with the greatest amount of success. Orris Root powder acts as a "glue" for the scent. Adding 1/2 tsp of Orris Root powder per 700 gram (1 1/2 lb.) batch. Powdered root adds a refreshing scent to linen, dried root can be chewed to freshen breath and is a popular potpourri fixative. The fragrance is delicate and unique. Also used as a base for dry shampoos, toothpowders and face masks as well as perfumery. Orris Root used to be a popular flavor in candies in Victorian times. It is still widely used in cosmetics. The powdered root is excellent for brushing your teeth. It is an important ingredient in perfumery. Note - Orris Root must not be used if you are labeling your product as being hypo - allergenic!
• Gum Benzoin - In some old recipes this may be referred to as benjamin. The balsamic resin from the leaves, bark and roots of the plant Styrax benzoin has been used for centuries as an antiseptic, bacteriacide, incense and perfume. Benzoin Gum is gelatinous when wet, and small, hard, water-soluble granules when dried. It is used as a preservative in creams and ointments, and as a fixative for fragrances in soaps. It is also used to treat minor cuts and dry, irritated skin. It is an antiseptic, antioxidant, deodorant and astringent.
• Calamus Powder - Sweet flag produces the root which is then ground and dried.
• Coumarin - The leaves of this plant added to a pot-pourri will help to fix the scents of other flowers.
• Sandalwood - Chips or powder will fix other scents. It will also add the smell of sandalwood itself.

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Colouring Soaps Chart #2 Here are some more color ingredient options, and the color they impart - Remember that dried plant material must be infused in warm oil, and the colored oil is then added to the soap mix at trace.
Herb/spice common name     Botanical name	Part/form used	Colour	Usage ratio
Alkanet root     Alcanna tintoria	Dried root (infused in oil)	Mauve/lavender, fading to grey
Annatto seeds     Bixa orellana	Dried seeds (infused in oil)	Yellow to orange
Calendula     Calendula officinalis	Petals only	Yellow or orange	4 ts per lb
Chlorophyll     Blue Algae	Industrially made liquid	Green, fading to grey	4 ts per lb
Cinnamon, cassia     Cinnamomum zeylanicum, C. cassia	Powdered bark	Pale to medium brown	1 ts per lb
Cocoa     Theobroma cacao	Powder	Brown	3 ts per lb
Comfrey root     Symphytum officinale	Powdered root	Light brown	2 ts per lb
Dark (bitter) chocolate     n/a	Blocks	Brown	1 oz per lb
Henna     Lawsonia alba	Powdered leaves	Murky green	1 ts per lb
Honey     n/a	n/a	Pale ivory to medium brown	1 oz per lb
Kelp (sea weed)     Fucus vesciculosus	Dried plant	Murky green	2 ts per lb
Madder root     Rubia tintorum	Powdered root	Pink	1 ts per lb
Mints     Mentha piperita, M. spicata, M. arvensis	Crushed or powdered leaves	Green, fading to grey	4 ts per lb
Paprika (sweet)     Capsicum annuum	Powdered fruit (seedless pod)	Pale to medium pink/orange	1 ts per lb
Parsley     Petroselinum, Carum petroselinum	Crushed or powdered leaves	Green, fading to grey	4 ts per lb
Poppy seeds     Papaver spp.	Seeds	Black "dots"	4 ts per lb
Rose hips     Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa spp.	Powdered hips	Reddish tan	1 1/2 ts per lb
Saffron     Crocus sativus	Dried stamina or stigma	Yellow	1/10 ts per lb
Spirulina (fresh water algae)     Spirulina	Industrially made powder or tablets	Murky green	2 ts per lb
Stinging nettle     Urtica dioica	Crushed or powdered leaves	Green, fading to grey	4 ts per lb
Turmeric     Curcuma longa	Powdered rhizome	Ochre yellow	2 ts per lb

Caution: It's important to do some simple tests before adding herbs or additives to your soap.

Testing Natural Colours

There are three tests for natural colorants:

1. A lye test - test how your colorant will react to the lye, dissolve about a tablespoon of lye into a half cup of water. Stir until the lye is completely dissolved and let it cool. Slowly add some of the plant material. You don’t need to use much – perhaps ¼ teaspoon of powdered colorant, or a few leaves of a fresh.
2. An oil test - If you're going to add the color to the oil, you can either add it at the beginning to the oils, or at the end, at trace. Either way seems to work about the same. Heat up about 4 ounces of oil. (I prefer to use coconut oil or lard so that I know that the oil is not imparting any color to the final results.) Add your colorant as before, and let it steep. Check back in a few hours and again after about 24.
3. Soap test - After you’ve tested the colorant in both the lye and oil, you should be ready to try it in a small batch of soap. Depending on whether the colorant acted better in the lye or the oil will determine when you add it to the mix. Some plant materials work better when steeped in the lye solution, others work better when added at trace. There is no hard and fast rule for how much of each colorant to add to your soap. Different plants have stronger coloring abilities, as well as each person's tastes in being different. When testing out a recipe - start with 1 tsp. of colorant for each pound of oils in your recipe. Then, based on those results, adjust the amount from there. If you're going to steep the colorant in the lye water, mix your lye-water first, then add the color. Let it steep for a few minutes - or a few hours if necessary. Then using this colored lye-water, make your soap.

TAKE NOTES - how much of the colorant you used, when you added it, how it reacted in the soap. Your memory may be good now, but several months from now, when you want to duplicate your wonderful results, you'll be grateful for those notes.

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Finishing and Personalizing your Soap

• To soften the rough outer surface of your soap, buff your bars with an abrasive cloth or piece of pure wool. You may have some bumps and lumps that can be removed easily with a knife. For a simple and quick design, take a small, serrated paring knife and shave off a thin layer of soap on one side. This will leave a wavy line, symbolizing water.
• A simple way to decorate and wrap your soap is to use a piece of paper or cloth as a band around the soap. Allow approximately 1/2” of soap exposure on either side. It’s nice to see and smell your hand-made soap. Try paper bags, cloth remnants, postcards, or old greeting cards.
• Personalize your bars with the person’s name on the label. “Suds for Bud”, “Barbara’s Beauty Bar”. Make guest soaps for a wedding with the bride and groom’s names and date. Make great stocking stuffers or basket fillers. How about candy cane (peppermint essential oil) scented liquid soap?
• For an elaborate monogram, use a separate, smaller mould in the shape of a letter or design — choose a dark shade of soap for this technique. When your letter or design soap is set, remove it from its mould and place it upside down at the bottom of a larger mould. Then pour white or light coloured soap over the object and let it set. When the two have set together, carefully remove from the mould and polish.

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Description of Soap Ingredients

• Avocado Oil: Pressed from dried and fresh avocado. A stable oil with a built in antioxidant system. High in Vitamins A, B, and D, and rich in lecithin. Has a beneficial effect on dry skin and wrinkles.
• Beeswax: Excreted by worker bees to construct the honeycomb. Has excellent skin protective qualities and increases hardness of soap.
• Castor Oil: Expressed from the Castor Bean. Soothing to the skin, it is used widely in lipsticks, solid perfumes and bath oils. As a soap making oil it acts as a humectant.
• Coconut Oil: Pressed from the dried meat of the coconut. Adds lather and moisturizing properties.
• Cocoa Butter: Expressed from the roasted seeds of the Cocoa plant. Softens and lubricates the skin.
• Distilled Water: The collected and condensed steam of boiling water.
• Jojoba Oil: A natural liquid from the kernels of the Jojoba desert plant. Has a chemical composition resembling the skin’s sebum. Antibacterial characteristics. Excellent for dry skin conditions.
• Lye: The solution of Sodium Hydroxide and water. Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic Soda is the strong alkaline base component of soap making.
• Olive Oil: (Pomice grade) Made from the pressing of the olive fruit and pits. An inferior food grade olive oil but good for soap making.
• Palm Oil: Extracted from the fruit of the palm tree. This oil is rich and viscous. Soothes and moisturizes dry skin.
• Palm Kernel Oil: Extracted from the nut of the palm tree. Used in small proportions it adds hardness to soap and provides lather.
• Shea Butter: From the nuts of the Bassia parkii tree in Africa. It is high in unsaponifiables and adds moisturizing properties to soap.
• Vegetable Shortening: Hydrogenated Canola Oil. A inexpensive soft oil to balance the hard oils of coconut and palm.

  Each of these recipes makes 1.5kg (3.3lbs.) of soap. A mould of these dimensions or that adds up to the same number when multiplied together will do. (6"x7"x2.5"deep) The wooden soap mould in the Moulds page of or on-line shopping section works very well.

  Basic Soap Formula - Oily to normal skin
  Ingredients		Temperatures & Times
  598 g 296 g 30 g 58 g 150 g 368 ml	Coconut Oil Vegetable Shortening Beeswax Avocado Oil Lye (6% discount) Distilled Water	Oil Temperature Lye/Water Temperature Cure Time Trace Time Mould Time	55°C (130°F) 55°C (130°F) 3 Weeks 15 Minutes 24 Hours

   

  Olive & Palm - Sensitive and normal skin
  Ingredients		Temperatures & Times
  680 g 302 g 18 g 128 g 374 ml	Olive Oil (pomace) Palm Oil Beeswax Lye (6% discount) Distilled Water	Oil Temperature Lye/Water Temperature Cure Time Trace Time Mould Time	55°C (130°F) 55°C (130°F) 4 Weeks 25 Minutes 24 Hours

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Testing pH level of Soap

You can test your soap for excess lye by applying a few drops of Phenolphthalein, a colourless, clear liquid. This chemical will turn pink or fuchsia in the presence of an alkali or an excess of lye. Soap that is to be used on the skin should be in the range of 7 to 9.5.

It’s the degree of pink that determines how alkaline your soap is. If a drop applied to the middle of a soap cutting turns deep pink or fuchsia then the soap should not be used on the skin. This soap however is great for the house and or laundry. If the drop stays clear or turns just the lightest shade of transparent pink then your soap should be fine.

If your soap was left uncovered while in the mould then the white chalk-like substance on the surface (soda ash) will also test alkaline. This can be trimmed off or avoided by applying plastic wrap to the surface right after pouring your soap into the mould.

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Soap Making: Cold Process Method #1

Carefully read the sections on Caution, and Soap making: the procedure before beginning. One of the most common mistakes soap makers make is not weighing the ingredients carefully. This is a crucial step. Make sure you use an accurate digital scale to weigh your oils and your Lye.

• Step 1 - Set oil in a hot water bath to liquefy contents. When the oil becomes clear, pour into a 2 cup measuring cup. If making soap from the “Soap Formulas” guide, accurately measure all oils required for your soap recipe using a digital scale.
• Step 2 - The Oil Phase. Gently heat oils using one of these two methods:
  • Stove Method: Use a stainless steel pot on the stove. Be careful not to burn oils.
  • Microwave Method: Use a microwave-safe container for your oils. Heat for 1 minute on high, then use 20 second intervals thereafter, until the required temperature is reached.

  Skill tip: Heat oil to 10° C past the required temperature per formula. This will allow time for the lye to cool to its correct temperature. Always heat oils before mixing lye and water.

• Step 3 - The lye/water phase. Pour room temperature distilled water (amount specified by formula) into a clean glass 2 cup size measuring cup. While stirring, slowly add lye. This mixture will quickly become very hot. Continue stirring until the water turns clear. Do not inhale the fumes. Place a candy thermometer in the cup, do not rest it on the bottom as it will give you a false reading — keep it somewhere in the middle. Let this mixture cool to the required temperature (refer to “Soap Formulas” for temperatures or use 150°F).
• Step 4 - Pour the hot oil into a large mixing bowl. Use a plastic spatula to get all the oil out of the measuring cup. When both oil phase and lye/water phase have reached their required temperatures, slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture while stirring in rapid, small circles. Note: Always add lye/water to oil, not the other way around. Continue to stir this mixture even after you have finished combining the two parts. Use a rapid, figure 8 pattern for stirring - being careful to incorporate the sides as well.
• Step 5 - Stir the soap mixture until it “traces”. This is a term to describe the consistency or thickness, and the stage where the soap mixture is ready to pour into moulds. Tracing is easily recognized. Using a plastic spatula, drizzle a small amount across the top of the soap mixture. If a mark or trail remains for a few seconds before disappearing again, your soap has traced. The mixture should be the consistency of liquid honey or pudding before it’s poured. If your soap takes a little longer than normal, don’t worry — just keep stirring and it will eventually trace. Tracing time for formulas can vary greatly; affected by room temperatures, humidity levels, and the speed of stirring.
• Step 6 - After the soap traces, you can add your own herbs and essential oils. Do not use perfume, synthetic fragrances, or extracts of any kind as the alcohol content may interfere with the soap making process.
• Step 7 - After adding any additional ingredients, pour your soap mixture into the mould. Place a piece of clear plastic wrap on top to create an air barrier. Cover your mould with a blanket or towel and place in a warm location away from drafts and children’s reach. Let set undisturbed for the specified moulding time as stated in the formula for your oil blend. Moulding tip: Grease your mould with vegetable shortening for ease of release later. Wear gloves during clean up and use hot water and dish soap to remove all residue from equipment.
• Step 8 - When removing soap from the mould, wear gloves to protect your hands. The soap may be slightly caustic at this stage and can irritate your skin. Gently press the back of the mould. You may find twisting the mold slightly works as well — same technique as removing ice from ice cube trays. If your soap will not release easily, try placing the mould in the freezer for one hour. Freezing causes moisture loss and the soap will contract and pull away from the edges. Use a large knife to cut your soap into desired size bars. (Note: colour may fade in soap placed in the freezer)
• Step 9 - After soap has been cut into bars, place them on a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap in a cool, dry, dark place to cure or age as specified in each formula. This time is necessary for the moisture to evaporate. Using the soap prematurely will lead to a spongy bar that may not lather or last very long. Wait for at least three weeks before finishing your bars (see section on “Finishing”.) After your bars have had a chance to dry or cure they will be able to with stand some rough handling. All good things take time! Write down the date of unmoulding and keep it with the curing soap as a reference.

Within 1/2 hour of pouring your soap into the mould you should notice it becoming hotter and turning dark in the middle. It can become quite dark and somewhat transparent. Bubbles may also come to the surface. This is a sign that your soap is properly neutralizing. It should stay hot like this for several hours before cooling and becoming light in colour again. Soap that is not properly insulated, cooled too much during tracing, poured into too small a mould, or with initial temperatures too low may not completely neutralize. 

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Soap Making Cold Process Method #2

• Step 1 - Select a soap making recipe and read through all steps carefully before starting. Assemble all ingredients and equipment making sure that all equipment meets the above requirements. Use of the wrong equipment can cause soap to not saponify properly.
• Step 2 - Cover a large, flat surface and surrounding floor area with several layers of newspaper.
• Step 3 - If using a wooden soap mold, line the mold with butcher paper making sure there are as few wrinkles as possible to prevent creases from forming on the soap. If using a plastic soap mold, spray with vegetable oil.
• Step 4 - Put on safety equipment (goggles and rubber gloves).
• Step 5 - Weigh out the required amount of lye into the glass jar. Do this by placing the empty glass jar on the scale and adjust the scale back to zero to prevent weighing the jar then add the required amount of lye. Set the glass jar full of lye aside.
• Step 6 - Weigh out the required amount of water into the plastic pitcher the same way the lye was measured.
• Step 7 - Carefully, pour the lye from the glass jar into the pitcher of distilled water. Never pour water into lye as this can cause the solution to splash up and out of the pitcher. If the solution does come into contact with the skin, rinse the area with vinegar and then running water. If the lye splashes into the eyes, immediately follow the manufacturer's directions on the lye container. Lye is a caustic soda and can be fatal if swallowed. Always keep lye out of the reach of children and pets. When working with lye make sure to wear protective eye wear and clothing. Be careful not to breathe in any lye crystals as they can cause serious burns.
• Step 8 - Using a wooden spoon, gently stir the lye solution until all the lye is dissolved. If lye crystals are not dissolved completely, chunks of lye can be left in the finished soap.
• Step 9 - The lye solution will immediately begin to heat up and the pitcher will become very hot. It will take the solution several hours to cool. Insert a thermometer into the solution, so that you can watch the temperature lower. It will need to cooled to a temperature of 100 degrees F.
• Step 10 - At the same time you are getting the lye solution cooled to 100 degrees F, the fats will need to be prepared. Place all measured fats (measured the same way as the lye) into a stainless steel melting pot and heat over low until the fats are melted. Insert the other thermometer into the melted fats and heat until they are 100 degrees F. If they are heated above this temperature, they will need to be cooled down.
• Step 11 - Remove your stainless steel pot from the burner and slowly pour the lye solution into the fats, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Make sure that you are still wearing your protective eye wear and gloves.
• Step 12 - Continue stirring the mixture until it begins to "trace". This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes up to 90 minutes. Trace means that the mixture is thick enough that when drizzled from the wooden spoon onto the surface, that it will leave a visible trail before it disappears.
• Step 13 - Add scents and colorants to the mixture (do not add before it starts to trace). Using the wooden spoon, gently stir to evenly distribute the fragrance and color. The use of a stick blender works well for mixing colorants, however, it will speed up the amount of time it takes for the mixture to trace.
• Step 14 - Immediately pour the mixture into the prepared mold and place a blanket over the top. This will keep the soap at a more even temperature as it hardens and begins to cure.
• Step 15 - Place the mold in a draft free area and allow to cool until solidified (a minimum of 24 hours and up to 48 hours).
• Step 16 - After the initial 24 to 48 hours, remove the blanket from the top of the mold. Test the soap with your fingers to see if it firm. If it isn't, allow it to sit in the covered mold for 24 more hours.
• Step 17 - Once firm, remove the soap from the mold and peel away the butcher paper.
• Step 18 - Place the soap onto a large cutting board and using a sharp kitchen knife, slice the soap into individual bars.
• Step 19 - Place the bars on a cooling rack and allow to cure for five to six weeks (the length of time for curing allows for all of the lye and fats to become completely saponified). After the soap has completely cured, it is ready to be used.

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Rebatching into Fancy Moulds

Handmilling or rebatching soap after unmoulding is done to achieve greater medicinal benefits from ingredients like herbs and essential oils, to increase colour intensity, and to change the shape and texture of the soap.

Rebatching can be done after unmoulding by grating or chopping a soap bar and using water to melt it. As a general rule, combine one cup of grated soap to 1/4 cup of water or herbal infusion. Heat in a double boiler or use a glass Pyrex container to microwave. Heat gently, stirring constantly to help break down soap pieces and evaporate the water. Continue until all water has evaporated. Remove from heat and add optional ingredients i.e.: herbs, spices, grains, essential oils, creams or lotions, or carrier oils such as jojoba or shea butter.

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Making Liquid Soap

Because of the moisture content of a natural liquid soap, they can be susceptible to rancidity. Keep your liquid soap in a cool dry place and in an air tight bottle, preferably with a pump or flip top to dispense your soap.

1. Follow the procedure for making soap as specified in the formula, with one exception — no curing time.
2. After you have removed your soap from a simple mould, shave, shred or chop the soap into small pieces.
3. Place one cup of shredded soap in a double-boiler and add 3 cups of water. Stir continually on medium heat until melted.

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Troubleshooting Soap Problems

Trouble Signs in Cooking the Soap

• Your mixture does not trace after the time listed in the formula passes. You may have one of the following problems: incorrect temperatures, stirring too slowly, or too much water. Make sure you get all the oil blend and lye out of their containers. Measure water accurately to ensure the correct amount is used, stir mixture smoothly and consistently. The Perfect Blend™ kit should trace within 45 minutes.
• Your mixture suddenly begins to streak. Your temperatures may have been too cold. If your soap still traces then quickly pour into molds.
• Your mixture begins to curdle in the bowl. Synthetic fragrances may cause this.
• Small chunks form in the bowl while mixing. Your oils, lye, or both may have been poured too hot, or you are stirring inconsistently or too slowly. Soap mixture may still trace, but this mixture is unsuitable, leading to poor soap quality. Test soap after un-moulding.
• Your mixture becomes, or is slightly grainy. Temperatures were either too high or too low, or your stirring wasn’t brisk and consistent. Maintaining temperature is very important for soap making. If your soap batch is split up and poured into small moulds after tracing, it may lose temperature to quickly and not completely neutralize.

Trouble Signs in Finished Soap

• Your soap cracks or breaks when un-moulded or when being cut. You may have added too much dry ingredients, or traced your soap batch too long.
• Your soap has a thin layer of white on the surface. Your soap mixture has reacted to the oxygen in the air. This is only an aesthetic problem, refer to Step #7 in the “Soap Making, the cold process method” section to avoid this next time.
• Your soap has hard, shiny chunks of solid lye, the rest of your soap is soft with a slippery liquid on the bottom. Your soap may have been poured into the mold before it had traced, or you stirred too slowly or inconsistently. Do not use these bars, they will irritate the skin.
• You see air bubbles in your soap. You may have stirred too quickly, or for too long.
• Your soap has an excessive amount of white powder on top of the bars, is cakey, or crumbly. Hard water may have been used to dissolve the lye. You should not use these bars, as they may irritate your skin. Be sure to use only distilled water in the future.

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