Idaho Web Design Tools
Candle PourTroubleshooting |
|
Beeswax | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| won't release from mold | -poured too
hot -stuck to mold |
-reduce pour
temp; 150-160° F is recommended -place mold and candle in refrigerator for 30-60 minutes -use silicone spray |
| cracking | -poured too
hot -cooled too fast or too much |
-reduce pour
temp -allow candle to cool slowly, at room temp -do not put candle in freezer |
| bloom (dusty appearance on surface) |
-natural beeswax phenomena | -cannot be
eliminated permanently -rub candle with soft cloth, or heat candle gently with hair dryer or warm water to remove (temporarily) -when making candle, use a cold water bath or cool in refrigerator to reduce/delay appearance of bloom |
| mold warp | -poured too
hot -cooled unevenly |
-reduce pour
temp -avoid drafts in cooling area -use room temp water bath for more even cooling |
| *see Pillars for other molding problems, and Tapers for dipping problems | ||
Burning - Wick | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| smoking/sooting | -burning candle
in a draft -wick too large -too much scent/oil in wax -wick too long |
-unavoidable to
some extent; a slight draft can cause the purest of candles to
smoke -burn candles in a draft-free environment -use smaller wick -reduce scent usage -use wax with lower oil content -trim wick to 1/4" before each lighting |
| dripping | -wax formula too
soft -melt point of wax too low -burning candle in a draft -wick off-center -wick too large (pillars) -wick too small (tapers) -lack of overdip (tapers) |
-add hardening
additives
such as Vybar 103, stearic, Poly, etc. -use approx. 140° F melt point wax for pillars and tapers -burn candles in a draft-free environment -center wick carefully when wicking a mold ; make necessary adjustments when dipping tapers -use smaller wick (pillars) -use larger wick (tapers) -overdip in high melt point wax to make dripless tapers |
| extinguishing (won't light or stay lit) |
-wick too
small -wick not primed (waxed) -wax formula too hard (too many additives) -essential oil is clogging wick -pigment is clogging wick -air cavities around wick |
-use a lighter
to melt a small wax pool -use larger wick -use waxed wick , or soak raw wicks in melted wax before use -reduce hardening additives -only use scents made specifically for candles -use dye instead of pigment for solid coloring; only use pigments for overdips -poke relief holes to make sure all cavities are filled |
| sputtering | -water in
wax -wick not primed (waxed) |
-pour
off melted wax and relight candle; remelt if that doesn't
help |
| burning too fast | -wick too
large -wax formula too soft -air cavities around wick |
-use smaller wick
-add or increase hardening additives such as Vybar, stearic, Poly, etc. -poke relief holes to make sure all cavities are filled |
| wick drowning | -wick too small -candle not burned long enough -wax formula too soft |
-use larger wick
-burn candles for at least one hour per inch of diameter -add hardening additives such as stearic, micro wax, Vybar, etc. |
| flame too small | -wick too
small -wax formula too hard -essential oil is clogging wick -pigment is clogging wick |
-use larger wick
-reduce hardening additives -only use scents made specifically for candles -use dye instead of pigment for solid coloring; only use pigments for overdips |
| flame too large | -wick too
large -wax formula too soft -air trapped in wax |
-use smaller wick
-use additives such as Vybar, micro wax, beeswax , etc. -pour wax slowly and steadily -pour wax hotter -tap mold gently a minute after pouring to release air bubbles |
| melt pool too small (tunneling) |
-wick too small -wax formula too hard |
-use larger wick
, or multiple small wicks for candles over 4" in diameter -reduce hardening additives |
| poor scent throw | -melt pool too small | -use larger wick
, or multiple small wicks for candles over 4" in diameter -reduce hardening additives |
| wax left hanging
on container walls (containers, votives) |
-wick too
small -not burned properly -wax formula too hard -wax melt point too high |
-use larger wick
, or multiple small wicks for a full melt pool -burn candle for at least 1 hour per inch of diameter -use soft wax (for containers), or reduce hardening additives -use approx. 130° F melt point wax or lower for container and votive candles |
| wick
mushrooming (carbon caps) |
-wick doesn't bend and combust properly | -unavoidable
with cored wicks, which are recommended for containers and
votives -reduce impurities such as additives, dyes, fragrances, etc. -use flat braid wick in pillars and tapers |
| wick forms ashes | -too many
impurities in wax -non-treated or poorly treated wick |
-reduce
impurities such as additives, dyes, fragrances, etc. -use only treated wicks made specifically for candles |
| wick falls over
and drowns (pillars) |
-too much slack
in wick -melt point of wax too low |
-pull wick taut
when wicking
mold -use approx. 140° F melt point wax for pillars |
| wick falls over
and drowns (containers, votives) |
-wrong wick type
used -lack of wick clip |
-used cored wicks
for containers and votives; they stand up better in the deep melt
pools -use wick clip to support wick during last hours of burning |
| wick corkscrews | -braiding flaw
in wick -wick strands twisted before use |
-inspect wick
and replace if faulty -take care not to damage raw wick |
Containers | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| "wet
spots" (wax pulls away from glass in some spots) |
-wax formula too
hard -container too cold -wax formula not tacky enough |
-use softer wax
made specifically for containers -heat container before pouring, with hair dryer or in oven at 150° F -add micro wax or beeswax |
| poor scent throw | -wax formula too
hard -melt pool too small -too much additive |
-use softer wax
made specifically for containers -use larger wick , or multiple small wicks to maximize melt pool size -use less additive (e.g. Vybar) to allow more scent to be released) |
| sweating | -too much
scent/oil -not enough additive |
-reduce scent
usage -use or increase Vybar 260 |
| rings inside glass (a.k.a. cold pour lines, jump lines) |
-poured too cold -container too cold |
-raise pour temp -heat container before pouring, with hair dryer or in oven at 150° F |
| mottling (snowflakes) | -lack of additives -too much scent/oil |
-use formulated
container wax -add Vybar 260 -reduce scent |
| no mottling | -use of formulated wax -use of additives |
-formulated "one-pour" type waxes will not mottle; use
straight or blended wax
-do not use additives |
| bubbles | -poured too fast | -pour slowly and steadily |
| sink hole/shrinkage | -wax contracts
as it cools -pour temp too high |
-unavoidable to
some extent, even with "one-pour" type waxes -reduce pour temp; 160° F or lower is recommended for our 127 wax |
| colored layers bled together | -repoured too
soon -repoured too hot |
-wait until
thick surface has formed on previous layer -reduce pour temp of layers |
Pillars | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| mottling (snowflake effect in wax) |
-lack of
additives -too much scent -too much oil in wax -cooled too slowly |
-use additives
such as Vybar 103, Poly, or micro wax -reduce scent -use wax with lower oil content -use cool water bath to reduce cooling time |
| no mottling | -use of
additives -not enough scent/parol oil -wax problem -cooled too fast |
-do not use
additives -increase scent /parol oil -some waxes will not mottle; use wax recommended for mottling -insulate or warm mold to extent cooling time, or use warmer water bath |
| sink hole/shrinkage | -wax contracts as it cools | -unavoidable to
some extent; poke relief holes around wick and refill -reduce pour temp |
| lots of repours
needed (3 or 4 is common) |
-repouring too
soon -cooling too fast -pour temp too high |
-wait until
previous pour has almost stopped shrinking -insulate mold or use warm water bath -reduce pour temp |
| repour(s) separated from candle after removal | -repoured too
late -repoured too cold |
-repour while
previous pour is still warm -repour at higher temp |
| pits | -dirty/dusty
mold -dirty wax -mold too cold -pour temp too low -lack of additives |
-inspect and
clean molds
before use -keep wax clean -warm mold to at least room temp -increase pour temp; 190° F is recommended for a smooth finish -use or increase additives such as Vybar 103, Poly, and micro wax |
| bubbles | -wax poured too
fast -candle cooled too fast -mold not tapped -pour temp too low -lack of additives |
-pour slowly and
steadily -cool at room temp, or use warmer water bath -tap mold gently a minute after pouring to release air bubbles -increase pour temp; 190° F is recommended -use or increase additives such as Vybar 103, Poly, and micro wax |
| dark spots on top of candle | -wax not stirred well enough -dirty wax -pigment used instead of dye |
-stir melted wax
thoroughly before pouring -keep wax and melting pots clean; pour through cheesecloth to filter -do not use pigments for solid coloring; use for overdipping only |
| poor scent throw | -not enough
scent -scent not compatible with wax (e.g. essential oils) -scent evaporated before pouring -too much additive -melt pool too small |
-use more scent
; 1/2 to 1 oz. per lb. of wax -only use scents made specifically for candles -add scent only about one minute before pouring, and mix well -use less additive (e.g. Vybar) to allow more scent to be released -use larger wick , or multiple small wicks to make melt pool as large as possible |
| frost marks | -candle stuck to
mold -pour temp too low -mold too cold -too much stearic |
-use kemamide
release powder and silicone
spray -increase pour temp; 190° F is recommended for a smooth finish -warm mold to at least room temp -reduce stearic percentage |
| sweating | -too much
scent/parol oil -lack of additives |
-reduce
scent/parol oil -use or increase additives such as Vybar 103, Poly, and micro wax; they allow wax to hold more scent/oil |
| won't release from mold |
-lack
of mold release |
-use kemamide
release powder and silicone
spray -do not repour over original fill line -use additives such as Vybar 103 and stearic to increase shrinkage and harden wax -place mold and candle in refrigerator for 30 minutes -heat mold and stuck candle in melting pot until released (last resort) -throw mold away if damaged -wait until candle has cooled completely before attempting to remove |
| cracking | -candle cooled
too quickly or too much -candle too cold for repours |
-allow candle to
cool slowly, at room temp, or use warmer water bath -insulate or warm mold prior to pouring -do not put candle in freezer -repour while previous pour is still warm |
| mold leaks | -wick hole not sealed properly -leaky seam |
-use mold
sealer liberally; pull wick taught or use new gasket for jiffy
wicker -use miracle seal to patch leaks |
| sides caved in | -cooled unevenly -surface not poked to relieve tension |
-avoid drafts in cooling area -use room temp water bath for more even cooling -poke relief holes around wick before repouring |
| rings around
candle (a.k.a. cold pour lines, jump lines) |
-poured too
cold -mold too cold |
-raise pour
temp; 190° F is recommended for a smooth finish -warm mold to a least room temp, or heat with a hair dryer |
| colored layers bled together | -repoured too soon -repoured too hot |
-wait until rubbery surface has formed on previous
layer -reduce pour temp of layers |
| colored layers separated | -repoured too
late -repoured too cold -wax formula not tacky enough |
-pour while
previous layer is still warm and flexible -raise pour temp of layers -add micro wax or beeswax to increase layer adhesion |
| single bubbly ring | -water level in water bath too low | -raise water level to wax level or higher |
Tapers | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| blisters | -wax too
hot -candle too hot -submersion time too long |
-reduce wax
temp; 150-160° F for paraffin, 160-170° F for beeswax
and bayberry
wax -wait longer between dips -dip candle in cool water after each dip -reduce submersion time |
| lumps | -wax too
cool -candle too cool -dipped too fast or carelessly -wick not primed properly |
-roll candle on
a smooth surface while still warm to remove lumps -raise wax temp -reduce time between dips -dip quickly and smoothly, and remove slowly -soak wick in wax for at least 30 seconds for first dip |
| layers not building up | -wax too hot | -reduce wax temp |
| poor layer
adhesion (air pockets between layers) |
-submersion time
too short -candle too cold -wax too cool -room temp too cool -wax formula not tacky enough |
-increase
submersion time -shorten time between dips -raise wax temp -raise room temp -add micro wax or beeswax |
| base of candle becoming tapered | -wax too
hot -submersion time too long |
-lower wax
temp -reduce submersion time -dip bottom of candle only to build up extra layers |
| candle cracks when rolling or braiding | -uneven temperature throughout candle | -re-dip in wax or hot water until pliable |
Novelties |
||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| won't
release/ stuck to mold |
-poured too
hot -lack of mold release |
-reduce pour
temp -use kemamide release powder (do not use silicone spray in plastic or rubber molds ) |
| mold stained | -use of dyed wax | -use undyed wax in plastic and rubber molds , and overdip for color |
| mold deteriorating | -use of
scent -use of silicone spray |
-do not use
scented wax -do not use silicone spray; only kemamide release additive -use miracle seal to plug small holes |
| mold
leaks (plastic) |
-mold not sealed
properly -holes in mold |
-use masking
tape , mold
clamps , and mold
base to seal mold -use miracle seal to plug small holes |
| *see Pillars for other molding problems | ||
Storage - Display | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| color fade | -UV rays from sunlight and artificial light | -add UV
inhibitor to reduce fading -overdip to restore color -store candles in a dark place |
| color shift/discoloration | -oxidation -"burned" wax (chemical structure of wax altered if exposed to high temperatures) |
-add BHT
crystals to reduce discoloration from oxidation -use double boiler method to prevent wax from reaching temperatures that will "burn" it |
| warping/bending | -wax formula too
soft -candle not stored flat -storage area too hot |
-use higher melt
point wax
-use hardening additives such as stearic, Poly, etc. -store candles flat -store candles in a cooler area; 44-70° F is ideal |
| chipping/breaking | -wax formula too
brittle -inadequate packaging -storage area too cold |
-use less
hardening additive -add micro wax or beeswax for "toughness" and pliability -store in heavy-duty cardboard boxes for protection -store candles in a warmer area; 44-70° F is ideal |
Votives | ||
|
Problem |
Possible causes |
Possible solutions |
| mottling (snowflake effect in wax) |
-lack of
additives -too much scent -too much oil in wax -cooled too slowly |
-use additives
such as Vybar
260 -reduce scent -use wax with lower oil content -use cool water bath to reduce cooling time |
| no mottling | -use of
additives -not enough scent/parol oil -wax problem -cooled too fast |
-do not use
additives -increase scent /parol oil -some waxes will not mottle; use wax recommended for mottling -insulate or warm mold to extent cooling time, or use warmer water bath |
| pits | -dirty/dusty
mold -dirty wax -mold too cold -pour temp too low -lack of additives |
-inspect and
clean molds
before use -keep wax clean -warm mold to at least room temp -increase pour temp; 170° F is recommended for a smooth finish -use or increase additives such as Vybar 260 |
| bubbles | -wax poured too
fast -candle cooled too fast -mold not tapped -pour temp too low -lack of additives |
-pour slowly and
steadily -cool at room temp, or use warmer water bath -tap mold gently a minute after pouring to release air bubbles -increase pour temp; 170° F is recommended -use or increase additives such as Vybar 260 |
| poor scent throw | -melt point of
wax too high -not enough scent used -scent not compatible with wax (e.g. essential oils) -scent evaporated before pouring -too much additive |
-use approx.
130° F melt point wax
-use up to 1.5 oz. of scent per lb. of wax -only use scents made specifically for candles -add scent only about one minute before pouring, and mix well -use less additive (e.g. Vybar) to allow more scent to be released |
| frost marks | -candle stuck to
mold -pour temp too low -mold too cold -too much stearic |
-use kemamide
release powder and silicone
spray -increase pour temp; 170° F is recommended for a smooth finish -warm mold to at least room temp -reduce stearic percentage |
| sweating | -too much
scent/parol oil -lack of additives |
-reduce
scent/parol oil -use or increase additives such as Vybar 260 ; allows wax to hold more scent/oil |
| won't release from mold |
-lack
of mold release |
-use kemamide
release powder and silicone
spray -do not repour over original fill line -use additives such as Vybar 260 or stearic to increase shrinkage and harden wax -place mold and candle in refrigerator for 20 minutes -heat mold and stuck candle in melting pot until released (last resort) -throw mold away if damaged -wait until candle has cooled completely before attempting to remove |
| rings around
candle (a.k.a. cold pour lines, jump lines) |
-wax poured too
cold -mold too cold |
-raise pour
temp; 170° F is recommended for a smooth finish -warm mold to a least room temp, or heat with a hair dryer |
| *see Pillars for other molding problems | ||